The Journey Begins

On April 1st, I started.

I think I should have known better than to start a major pilgrimage on the Day of Fools.

I had everything timed, planned, perfected so I could enjoy an unhurried journey to the Camino starting place in St. Jean Pied-de-Port in the French Pyrenees. This involved a ride by the Amazing Susan to the airport, a quick flight to Boston, a relaxed layover, a red-eye flight to Paris (the key leg to this whole thing), another relaxed layover, a quick jet to Biarritz (alas, not to surf or sunbathe), and then a 1-hour shuttle to my first alburgue (pilgrim hostel).

Nice plan….

Until right before our drive to the airport, when Air France sent me a flight cancelation email. Paris? Mais non, monsieur. Oops! Eek!

This started a day of stress of trying to rearrange my Paris and Biarritz flights. All of which involved hours of unhelpful and crazymaking phone calls to the corporate hellscape of airline customer service. Thanks to the reassuring and sensible words of encouragement from my wife and the exceptional help of Jennifer Stephens at NewStepTravel, I didn’t lose my mind or hope. It all worked out – after many deep breaths and earnest prayers – so I could take a different flight to Paris. I took the rebooked flight on faith that my later connection would work out. When I landed in Paris, an extremely helpful Air France agent smoothed the way for me to get a standby ticket on a sold-out flight to Biarritz (which ultimately got me a front of plane window seat). Tres bien, monsieur.

I arrived safely and on time on Wednesday afternoon at Gite Beliari, with my bag intact, after 25 hours of travel and one hour of fitful red-eye sleep.

Pilgrim Lesson: Having a strong home support network gives strength and hope to see it through to the miraculous.

Another Should-Be-Obvious Pilgrim Lesson: Letting go sure beats getting stressed.

Pilgrim Life Starts in the Village

Gite (pilgrim hostel, en Francais) Beliari (the Basque word for “pilgrim”) is my 2-night starting point on the Camino. It’s officially awesome.  Beliari is a converted 17th century Basque house with small shared quarters for pilgrims. It’s spotless, charming, and pilgrim- focused. There are shared meals and opportunities to interact with fellow pilgrims from around the world. I’ve met pilgrims from 11 different nations so far. At our table, it was mainly Italians, Australians, English, and Americans.

Before dinner (an excellent vegetarian feast), our charming Basque host Joseph led us in a get-to-know-you game to help the pilgrims interact, relax, and share in a few words why they are on the Camino. I observed a lot of life-transition pilgrims (seeking direction post-retirement or in the midst of job burnout). Others are seeking meaning. A few thirst for adventure (and, likely, local wine).

This special hostel offers a gentle and supportive start. We learn about the different reasons for other pilgrims’ Camino. We observe different levels of pilgrim preparedness and fitness — from the hill-devouring Israeli to much less fit pilgrims. We quietly notice the range of equipment choices: shoes or boots? Hoka or Merrell? Backpacks are seen ranging from day sacks weighing well under 10 pounds, to giant rucks as big as trucks. Some carry a backpack, and a front daypack, AND a suitcase. For reals.

We take communal time and personal space as needed. The typical daily routine will be covered later.

Pilgrim Lesson: Each pilgrim has their own Camino, started for unique personal decisions and leadings. We observe and encourage them on their Way without judgment or comparison. We cheer each other’s journey and wish them a hearty “Buen Camino!“

Spiritual Focus: “Blessed are those whose strength is in You, whose hearts are set on pilgrimage.” Psalm 84:5

My heart is set and my bag is packed.

I’m aching and itching to go.

Ultreia!