A Modern Pilgrim's Progress

The Camino Family

The pilgrim dinner at the lovely and exceptional Alburgue Suseia in Zubiri.

4/6: Roncesvalles to Zubiri.

8:09 a.m. to 3:01 p.m. hiking time.

Steps taken: 34,496.

Miles hiked: 14.42.

Elevation gain: 1,320 feet.

Average walking speed: 2.7 miles per hour.

This will be a short installment due to the length of the hike and a special communal dinner in Zubiri. The pictures will tell the story of this day.

The alburgue at Roncesvalles where my day started.
The pilgrim must-do photo op from my morning start on the Way. 790 kilometers is equivalent to about 490 miles.
The hiking conditions for the first few miles were short-sleeve weather, partly sunny on lovely level paths surrounded by gorgeous farmland and charming villages. It could not have been nicer.
Our trailside view.
A famous pilgrim stream crossing.
Several miles into the hike, we encountered several hills. They were challenging, but not like yesterday!
The trail was full of pilgrims. Most of the day I could see other pilgrims on the trail. I’d pass them, they’d pass me and eventually many became familiar.

I spent about half of my day walking with new Camino friends Dave and Joane, from Ireland, and Gerda from Estonia. Other pilgrims from Korea, Australia, the United States, and Brazil shared our path. Conversation was casual and easy with new Camino family found.

Our trail led up, then down through piney forests.
One of many charming villages we passed through.
The last third of the path, about 4 miles, was generally downhill on broken rock surface,  mud, or the combination of both. It was hard, technical hiking. Very slow going on treacherous trail surfaces.

I ended up with new and repeat blisters at the end of the day. I have been treating and watching my feet carefully to see if I need shorter hiking days, rest days, and/or a podiatrist visit.

The Feast

There are ten pilgrims staying at this alburgue, from the U.S., Australia, and Korea. We shared an exceptional locally sourced gourmet feast and excellent sharing. Each person at the table gave an introduction to themselves and their career / retirement history. It was a heartfelt introduction to the concept of the “Camino Family,” pilgrims who form fast and meaningful connection along the Way.

The main dish, a local specialty of cakes made of rice, eggs, bacon, onion and family grown tomatoes. Indescribably delicious!
One of the starter choices: beetroot gazpacho. It has tomatoes, onion, garlic olive oil, and beetroot, with a chive and apple garnish. Also a winner.
A local cheeky vino tinto was offered.

Our host Sara also served us fresh bread and olive oil, a local chorizo pinxto, handmade chocolate whisky truffles, an amazing fresh greens salad, a cream yogurt / condensed milk parfait with lemon peel, and a family liqour of sloe fruit and aniseed.

Pilgrim Lesson: It’s okay to share your story and to appreciatively hear the stories of fellow pilgrims.

Tomorrow: a flatter walk to Pamplona and my mystery alburgue.

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Carl Schlaudt
A modern day pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago.
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