Afternoon of 4/11 through the Morning of 4/13

I arrived to Logroño in light drizzle after a long 17.36 mile hike from Los Arcos on Friday 4/11. [The hike had a few high points, but I am going to skip that day and cover my weekend in Logroño– a large city and my “zero day” (no hiking)].

I got off the pilgrim path literally and figuratively once I arrived in this bustling city. My purpose here was to take rest, restock, and sightsee at my leisure. Stopping walking for a day and all the pilgrim routine and attending to rest and health management are difficult for me. I want to go on, but I needed rest and recovery time after walking 101 miles during my first eight trail days on the Camino.

I had to walk a short distance from the path to downtown and my hostel.

I checked into a city center hostel, which provides private single rooms and private bathrooms (yay!). It’s all very high-tech and low-touch and sort of like a people-less hotel. I heard through the wall other people staying here, but I never see them. It’s disconnecting and de-centering for me. I feel alone and apart from my pilgrim community in this big city.

There is one crummy and non- working snack vending machine here, and all the nearby shops are closed for siesta. Hunger gnaws at me for several hours as I await for siesta to end. I venture down to the cathedral to burn time and to check the “I’ve seen it” box. The cathedral is standard-issue: large, old, dark, ornate, and unfilled with people. I look in every corner for a place to get my pilgrim passport stamped. There is no helpful person to be found.

I did peek into a closed-off cathedral area that was under renovation. Through a glass wall I see several workers and lay persons busily moving and fitting parts for what must be an Easter parade float. I see small snatches of beauty and am reminded that Easter IS coming. It’s the big deal of our faith and is completely worth all-out celebration. Spain goes big for religious parades.

Back outside I find an open shop to grab a snack. I was lurking in a covered walkway watching the cathedral, eating my ice cream. A Russian-accented beggar was opening the cathedral doors for folks trying to get in to see the cathedral. Cup in hand, he was asking for coins. It all seemed kind of off. I pondered what part was genuine need and what part was a tourist scam. I spotted two pilgrims with their backpacks on at a side door talking to a priest. The priest told us that a “sello” (stamp for the pilgrim passport) would be available at the main door at 7 p.m. I waited till then and, passing the questionable beggar, entered and looked around. Nothing. The beggar came up to me and walked with me across the length of the cathedral to the “sacristy” (I’m not Catholic, so I am not read in on their code words!). A nun stamped my passport and I was on my way.

Not so fast….

I had to go back through the main doors and past the beggar. Cup in hand, he awaited payment. I walked by and walked on without putting a coin in the cup.

I was conflicted about my response and to this situation. While instinctively I veer towards a Scrooge-like response to beggars. It borders on tight-fisted suspicion. I know that at times it would be better to act more like the character Carl from the movie, YES MAN (great flick, btw) and be more generously open to the universe and freer to give when asked. And the beggar had gone out of his way to help me in my need.

Conscience chastened, this pilgrim will now carry loose change in my pockets rather than hidden away in my Fort Knox high-security inacessibe money belt. It’s time to be ready to give more freely.

I found a modest and decent meal at a low key place serving tapas (called “pinxtos” here and in Navarra).

Zero Day

The next day was better and more full of purposeful activity and rest. With minimal Spanish language ability I successfully:

* Did laundry at a local laundromat.
* Road a bus to do some shopping. The bus system here is fantastic! Clean, cheap (1 Euro), on time, and environmentally friendly.
* Bought hiker supplies at Decathlon (a Spanish big-box sporting goods store with very good customer service).

* Went to Leroy Merlin (the Spanish equivalent of Home Depot) to buy duct tape to repair my shoes.

* Ate lunch at Burger King. Don’t judge — I needed a burger.
* Caught the bus back to my hostel.

In the afternoon I rested. That evening I enjoyed a solo meal. I would have greatly preferred to be sharing in the conpany of the Amazing Susan. The restaurant offered early dinner at 7:30 p.m. and less of the tapas bar frenzy of nearby Calle de Laurel (Logroño’s famous foodie Street packed with oodles of tapas bars and brimming with energy).

My dinner was good / very good. With wine, bread, first and second course, and tax, it was about $30. At home, it would have been twice that.

I was stuffed to the gills. I somehow found room to cram an ice cream into my pilgrim maw. With all this walking I’m typically burning 4,000+ calories a day.

Leaving Logroño

The next morning was leisurely. I had a good breakfast ($6.13 USD), packed slowly, and was out the door at about 11 a.m., headed to Navarrete. It was a short hike of less than eight miles.

Pilgrim Wisdom: Rest is a spiritual act and physical necessity.

Pilgrim Lesson: Keep coins in the pocket. It’s good to be ready to be generous.