4/16: Redecilla del Camino to Villafranca Montes de Oca

Time: 8:17 a.m. to 3:14 p.m.

Distance: 16.3 miles.

Steps: 33,809.

Elevation Gain: 1,388 feet.

Average Walking Speed: 3.5 mph.

The Trail of Vulnerability
I started the day talking with Australian friend Stephen in the alburgue. He’s a preacher’s kid (on the near side of 70) and has been in mourning the loss of his excellent father. He is discovering on the Camino that he needs to be more focused on loving others, but to do so, he needs to become vulnerable again.

Further on down the trail, I met a group of pilgrims at a cafe. [I had the most amazing chicken empanada for my second breakfast]. There, I met Jasper. He is from Minnesota but has been living in L.A. going to school and getting to spend time with his brother. We spent about five miles walking fairly fast on the trail and talking broadly about life. He is a 21-year-old college student who is trying to figure out himself and his place in the world. During his Camino, he has stopped using social media, which makes him feel disconnected from his former friends. It’s a very consciously counter-cultural act for someone of his digital native generation. Instead, he values family, simplicity, and being close to those he loves. We talked about the need for vulnerability in relationships, which he calls “radical vulnerability.” He is remarkably self-aware and a true old soul.

At this point in the Camino, I am reflecting on how I keep running into the concept of vulnerability. And it keeps on happening beyond this 2-day lagged entry. Perhaps, and most likely, this is to be an important Camino lesson for me. Today, I have encountered two people who freely have a similar message about the need to be vulnerable. I find this to be a teachable moment for me.

The Great Sandwich Quest
I started to get hungry, but the supply of places to eat didn’t keep up. I was now on the Great Sandwich Quest. Several villages didn’t have it. Then, I found the perfect sandwich at La Taberna in Espinoza del Camino. It was a life-affirming work of beauty – the perfect queso and jamon (cheese and ham) lovingly placed between revelatory and oh-so-perfectly toasted home-baked sourdough slices. I paired it with a densely moist homemade chocolate cake. I was transported.

Carl Plays a Taylor Swift Song
The night before, when I was staying at a quirky small alburgue in Redecilla del Camino, the eight pilgrims shared a decent community dinner. Afterwards, I grabbed the acoustic guitar hanging on the wall and played a few progressions and stock Carl riffing. I felt like I should contribute to the mood, but at that moment my musical gas tank was pretty empty. I put down the guitar to some polite applause. Then Tuva, from Sweden, sat down at the piano and announced, “I only know one song — it’s by Taylor Swift.” She started banging out a simple 4-chord progression. I got intrigued. I picked up the guitar again and jammed my heart out. When we were done, Tuva was absolutely radiant. Glowing. She said, “I never jammed with anyone before. It was great!”

Fast forward to the next day — I see Tuva walking into the holy and sanctified sandwich cafe. I feel like I should say something, so I did. I told her about how she looked after our jam session and that she should (a word I use with the greatest restraint) find other musicians in her area and jam again. She said that she agreed and was planning to buy an electronic keyboard after she finishes her Camino.

The Cold Has Not Departed
I then hiked into the teeth of a cold front. It’s here to remind us that winter is not yet done and that the weather on the Camino is highly variable. Results may vary. No guarantees.

Singing at Supper
In Villafranca Montes de Oca, my destination for the day,  I had booked at an alburgue attached to a nice local hotel. You get dorm sleeping and pilgrim prices with hotel amenities. It’s a nice deal. At dinner, I shared a feast with several Australians and Dutch pilgrims.

The wine flowed. The Australians loosened up and started singing pop songs from the 60s 70s 80s, etc. I sat next to an Australian bloke named “Stumpy” (for his short legs — “Stumps” or “Stumpo” in shorthand Australian-speak).

I correctly guessed that one of the people at the table was a pastor (Lutheran church). He and his wife are on sabbatical doing the Camino. And they sing very well. After lots of laughs and songs and good-hearted sharing, they decided to make me an honorary Australian. It’s a title that I will wear with great honor and pride.

G’day mates.