May 7: Sarria to Portomarin

Stage Distance: 13.79 miles.

Actual Distance Hiked: 14.76 miles.

It was a good day full of sunshine and cool breezes. My breathing has improved, and for the first time in more than a week, I felt fairly strong and almost back to my trail boss form.

There are many more pilgrims on the trail now that we’ve left Sarria — that was to be expected. However, it didn’t feel unduly crowded, and I could still find my peace and enjoy quiet stretches.

I Get a Kangaroo!

Early on the trail, I met an older couple from Australia. He’s 80. She is 73. I noticed a flag patch on one of their backpacks. I asked what country they were from. They said Australia. They asked me to take a picture of them with the beautiful valley scenery in the background. After that, the woman gave me a small kangaroo charm that says, “I Love Australia.” She says she hands them out to people who she thinks are nice.

Saved by a Stranger

Down the trail a bit, I ran into a group of younger pilgrims who sounded American by accent. I asked where they were from, and they said Canada. We chatted a bit (one guy who has traveled the world for the past seven years said I had a California accent), and then I told him my name (Carl) and parted ways.

Right after this exchange, I’m stopped by a Spanish man. He asked me if my name was Carl. I said yes. He told me, “I have something important for you.” He reached into his pocket and handed me my debit card, which, unbeknownst to me, had fallen out of my pocket back on the trail about an hour before. [Cash is king in Spain. Small merchants greatly prefer it, and it is considered rude to use a credit card for any small purchase. Without my card, I would have had no access to cash].

He had picked it up and was looking for me when he overheard me saying my name. I felt so blessed and taken care of today. I gave him a big hug of gratitude and, with new energy in my step, walked to Portomarin.

Pictures of the Day

Leaving Sarria with magical morning light.
The first half of the day was generally uphill. Nothing too freaky, but uphill nonetheless. We entered a high plateau with amazing vistas.
This trailside horse was totally silly. He caught my eye with his toothy antics.
We had many small streams running parallel to the path today.
Unique to Galicia are these narrow structures called “hórreos.” They keep grain dry and protected from rodents (which can not pass the extended floor of the granary).
A dad pushing a junior pilgrim (who was about three years old and holding a play sword). Dad was having a rough go of it, with the gravel and challenging trail surfaces.
About halfway to Portomarin we reached the 100 kilometers trail marker. In non-metric terms, this equals about 62 miles to Santiago de Compostela — I have just four days left!
Hamming it up on the plateau.
This is a real cow, not AI generated, which was really standing above the path on a pasture level with the top of a retaining wall. She was watching pilgrims passing by.
Entering Portomarin.
But wait! Let’s do some stairs first!

Pilgrim Lesson: Have no expectations other than an awareness that something amazing may be just around the corner. Like a debit card, which was lost but is now found. Or a gifted kangaroo. Or a silly horse and a majestic cow.

Carl Schlaudt Avatar

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