A Modern Pilgrim's Progress

Getting Close!

May 8: Portomarin to Palas de Rei

May 9: Palas de Rei to Arzua

Distance on the Map: 33.4 miles

Distance Actually Walked: 29.4 miles

Distance by Taxi: 6.36 miles

May 8

May 8 was a slog. I wasn’t feeling as good as the previous day and my blister continually reminded me of its presence. Heel blisters are no joke when walking consecutive long distances. I heard a cranky old man yelling on his balcony as I walked into Palas de Rei. Others told me the town’s vibe was off. Lots of angry folks for some reason. The scenery wasn’t extraordinary, and I became trail-numb by the visual sameness.

Marching to Hymns

To keep my spirits up and motivated during such times on the trail, I hum silly little marching cadences that I make up. The contents therof are secret, but banging. I also have been focusing on a couple of hymns, on endless loop in my mind while I walk across Spain: “On Jordan’s Stormy Banks” (Indelible Grace version) and “It is Well With My Soul” (my reimagined version — it’s awesome). Both lend themselves to a decent marching cadence of about 3 miles per hour, and the lyrical content is hugely edifying and encouraging.

May 9

On May 9th, I felt better (I had re-bandaged my blister, and my cough was lesser and bearable). I was also rushing to beat a forecasted midday thunderstorm. Those are not your friend when you are out exposed on the trail.

On the way I stopped for second breakfast at Essential Coffee. It’s a small and mighty trailside Cafe. I had my go-to protein boost (Tortilla Espanola) and cafe con leche. The Tortilla hit all the marks: it was warm, moist, and had thoughtful smaller bits of potato and — a first for me here — sautéed onion. It was super-delicious. And, it was served with a large (i.e., big enough to fill your palm) chunk of homemade, fresh, soft, and warm sourdough bread. It was divine. When I was getting ready to leave, I was paying my bill when the owner discreetly slid a napkin-coverwd chunk of sourdough bread across the counter to me. “You’ll need it for your hike today,” he said.

I made a good distance, had lunch (meeting up with trail friends Jet and Crystal), and called a cab for the last few miles. I was glad I did — the storm was a real soaker, with dramatic thunder sounds. I listened to the mayhem from the protected comfort of the back of the taxi.

Jet, Crystal, and yours truly.

Here are some pix of the past two days:

On May 8, I ate breakfast at a faux Hard Rock Cafe themed pilgrim restaurant. The walls were covered with electric guitars and pictures of rock stars. I gave a knowing nod of respect to guitar heroes, Jimi and Eddie. I.Y.K.Y.K.
A good part of the trail — soft dirt and a canopy of trees.
Trailside whimsy.
The hilltops and ridgeline had been largely clear-cut for lumber. Replanting was done with non-native eucalyptus trees.
Tortilla Espanola. Huge portion!
A lovely local butterfly (Vanessa atalanta, commonly known as a red admiral).
The trails are more crowded after Sarria. I still found times of quiet and solitude.
More ridgeline hiking.
I ducked into a small local church to light a candle in remembrance and honor of the Amazing Susan’s father, Richard Sheridan,  and my mother, Rita Roberts, who both died on the same date (different years).
I’m a real sucker for tree canopies that arch languidly over pleasant roads.
On the trail to Arzua.
A pilgrim with a tow-behind cart. And a plucky french bulldog companion.
The trail has great vistas. This is not one. It is a reminder that much of the Camino Frances runs through developed areas — including junk car lots.
Storm clouds brewing.
About halfway to Arzua, we enter the larger town of Melide by a lovely bridge crossing.
A beekeeper mural in Melide.

What’s Next

I have two shorter days of walking to finish my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Then things move fast. I have to go to the Pilgrim’s Office at the cathedral to get my Compostela (certificate of completion), attend a Pilgrim’s mass, sightsee… and the Grand Reunion With The Amazing Susan. We’ll shift into vacation mode with ten days touring Northern Spain.

At that time, dear reader, I hope to reveal a secret that I’ve been keeping till the end of the pilgramage. It’s not naughty, shocking, or socially objectionable, but I promise that it will be HUGE. Big. Ginormous.

Stay tuned and keep reading….

Carl Schlaudt Avatar

Published by

Carl Schlaudt
A modern day pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago.
Categories:

One response to “Getting Close!”

  1. Hayeon oh Avatar
    Hayeon oh

    Hi Carl I’m Ha Yeon I’m really sad that I couldn’t see you one last time, Carl. We did it!! I’m so proud of us. I wish you all the best and hope you stay healthy. Thank you for walking together with me. I’ll be in Santiago until tomorrow! I hope we might run into each other by chance.

    Like

    Reply

Leave a comment