April 4: St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos.

8:24 a.m. to 12:21 p.m. hiking time.

20,081 steps taken.

8.72 miles covered.

1,287 feet of elevation gain.

Average walking speed of 2.9 mph.

I had a leisurely start in St. Jean Pied-de-Port this morning. All the outgoing pilgrims at Beliari were packing and repacking their backpacks, trying to squeeze out the most room with the least amount of weight. It was the War of the Ounces. I think we all felt that we were carrying too much but just couldn’t let it go yet.

I started my hike through the ancient  early morning streets of St. Jean Pied-de-Port. I walked through its small suburbs. This started the legendary pilgrim “find the sign” game. We’re always looking for signs and trail markers to show you the Way. Here’s a sampler:

I got lost a few times, but it was nothing major.

Leaving St. Jean Pied-de-Port, the Way winds between small farms along narrow country roads.

Even though I had to contend with a lot of inclines, this was a fairly easy day. My training prepared me for this. I felt strong. Even though I was practicing the advice of author and fellow pilgrim, Joyce Rupp, to “walk in a relaxed manner,” my actual pace was good and exceeded my expectations. Tomorrow will likely be harder with more hills before I reach Roncevalles.

I have split my journey across the Pyrenees over two days, taking the Valcarlos Route instead of the more popular and crowded Napoleon Route. I sought to avoid potential late season snow on the higher pass. And, it gave me a gentle start with quiet hiking and easier reservations for my first hiking day’s alburgue. In many ways, I took the road less traveled.

I had gone perhaps six miles after St. Jean Pied-de-Port before I saw another pilgrim. I had the road to myself and was happily quiet in my relaxed walk. I was given the gift of Spring in its full glory and savored it all.

The paths today were mostly pavement, which is harder on my feet. I also had to keep a wary eye out for cars, trucks, and busses sharing the road. Most upcoming Camino segments promise to be less likely to be paved or shared with vehicles.

I lost the trail at the border commercial area of Arnéguy. As I was standing there looking confused, and another pilgrim came along who was similarly lost. This guy is from England but has been living in the States a few hours away from my home base!

We chatted for a bit and then asked around for directions. We were pointed to the main road (which was pretty busy with traffic). “Go there,” we were told in broken English. So, the English guy and I started walking that way. We got about a hundred yards up the road. I started getting a bad feeling about my safety on the narrow and busy road. It felt like the wrong way.

I spotted what might be the separate and correct trail a few hundred yards up and to my right, straddling the river valley hillside. My new Camino friend and I parted ways. I went back to try to find the trailhead while he went trudging along the narrow roadside. I prayed for his safety.

Back at the Arnéguy gas station, I was pointed to the right path. There was no sign. Just this…

I had a couple more hilly miles on increasingly narrow and trafficked roads to reach my destination of Valcarlos. About half an hour out, it started lightly raining. I put on my coat (which is okay for a little rain only) and found my way to small village of Valcarlos and my “alburgue” (which is actually a private hotel catering to the pilgrim crowd).

I got my first “on the road” stamp in my pilgrim passport and had to wait in the bar/restaurant for the 1 p.m. check-in time. Guess who I met there? It was the English pilgrim I had met back in Arnéguy! He’s staying at the same inn. We caught up for a bit and shared trail stories.

My room is private, and my accommodations are an upgrade over the traditional shared alburgue hostel.

I showered, did laundry, and took a quick stroll through Valcarlos (sans backpack!).

Each day, I also make it a point to have a call (preferably a video chat) with my wife. I was able and grateful to hear and see (virtually) the Amazing Susan.

Tomorrow, the hills await me. On to Roncevalles!

Pilgrim Lesson: Watch for the signs and ask for help when you get lost.