4/8: Pamplona to Puente La Reina.

8:41 a.m. to 3:19 p.m.

Steps Taken: 36,214.

Miles Hiked: 14.79.

Elevation Gain: 1,523 feet.

Average Walking Speed: 3.1 miles per hour.

This day was a doozy.

It started when I discovered that a fellow pilgrim at the Pamplona alburgue is a physical therapist. I asked if she could recommend any stretches for my tight calves (legs, not baby cows), which are a long-term challenge for me, especially with so much hiking. She generously showed me a new and helpful stretch and then brought out her massage oil and massaged my feet and calves. This was all very amazing and selfless. It helped me get through what was going to be a peak challenge day.

The morning offered a long and steep ascent and a highlight memory for my Camino experience.

At the top, we savored outstanding vistas of Pamplona and the Pyrenees (from whence we came) to the valleys and farms towards Puente La Reina.

The hike down was brutal. Steep descents for long distances on rock and gravel.

The remaining day was not without beauty and trailside charm.

Charles, the volunteer hospitalero (host staff at the alburgue) in Pamlona, had recommended an alburgue attached to a nice hotel in Puenta La Reina. The other hospitalero, Katherine(?) who is fluent in Spanish, called ahead to secure me a precious bed.

I shared an upgraded dinner with a fellow American pilgrim who hails from Tampa, Florida. Brown (that’s his name) is a driven and energetic entrepreneur and motivational speaker.

Losing Weight

After multiple successive hikes of great distance, ascents and descents, and the challenge carrying a 20+ pound pack, I had had enough. For the sake of my health and sanity and for the ability to finish this journey, I chose to lighten my load. I still think that nearly all I’ve packed is essential and will be needed, but I discovered a solution so I would not have to carry so much on the path. There are several local luggage transfer companies who, for 6 Euros, will gladly schlep your junk to the next alburgue, IF (and this is a very big deal and limitation) you have made an advance reservation at the  destination alburgue. This means that you can not use this service to send your bags to municipal alburgues and those that do not accept advanced reservations.

I tried this option and cut my pack weight from 20 pounds to about six pounds. It made all the difference for my next day hike into Estella.

Pilgrim Lesson: If offered a foot massage, gladly accept.

Pilgrim Wisdom: Less is more.