4/10/25: Estella to Los Arcos

Time: 8:14 a.m. to 2:14 p.m.

Distance: 14 miles.

Steps: 30,273.

Elevation Gain: 1,396 feet.

Average Walking Speed: 3.1 mph.

Walking out of the easy-on-the-eyes town of Estella, I went through urban and suburban streets. I quickly reached the village of Ayegui. My first stop was the charming and eclectic Ayegui blacksmith forge and shop.

My First Necklace

The Irache Wine Fountain

Ayegui is also the home of the legendary Irache Wine Fountain. Bring yer cup, fill it up. You heard that right pilgrims. Free wine for pilgrim passers-by. They encourage small sips, so there will be plenty to share for other pilgrims. I sampled a small sip of their decent Tempranillo (Rioja red wine), smiled, and kept walking on.

More New Friends

After the wine fountain, I started walking with a group of high-school students. I noticed three of them practicing their English skills, so I did what any normal loud and pushy Amrican would do: I joined their conversation. They were friendly and engaging. We talked about where we were all were from, and I learned a bit about Spanish teens. This group is from Barcelona and is on a school field trip — backpacks and long hikes and overnight stays in hostels — from Pamplona to Logroño. Several days on the trail. As the day progressed, I kept bumping into them and exchanging friendly, simple chatter. As I walked on, I heard quiet giggles saying, “Americano.”

On a hilly section before yet another small trailside village (the kind with a bar for cafe con leche, trail food, and most importantly, a WC), I met a delightful older, couple from western British Columbia, Ross and Lynne. They’re retired music teachers who are taking the Way at their speed and ability. Which means they were scooting very well for 70-something year-olds. Role models for the future older me.

At the bar I again met up digital nomads Justin and Jessica from Chicago. I sat down to share some coffee and chat. I had met J/J in Roncesvalles (at the mega-hostel in the Pyrenees). They’re young, ambitious, creative, and great trail company.

After that, it became an easy path through farmlands on generally level or gently sloping pathways next to  farmland (grains, vineyards, olive groves). The weather was cool and the hiking was pleasant.

I arrived in Los Arcos early enough to shower, do laundry, and rest during siesta hours when the whole town is shuttered and silent.

I did a little more walking around for fun and met up with a group of American trail friends for a beer. They included “Roadie” (his trail name from the AT) and Brown, the Tampa entrepreneur. Fascinating people. The kind of folks who go big at life.

This night was spent at a bare bones and simple alburgue. It was a cheap bed and meal. I shared dinner with a lovely couple from Thailand, a couple from Chicago, and a single woman from Bordeaux, France. I’m finding that this trail is full of world citizens — people who have lived in multiple countries, speak several languages, and have visited more places than I can count.

Pilgrim Lesson: I’m finding that being willing to talk to strangers — which is a challenge for this card-carrying introvert — is the gateway to discovery. And, listening to their stories without judgment is the builder of relational bridges.

Pilgrim Housekeeping: Please kindly remember that I will not be able to provide new and interesting content every day. I’m running a couple of days behind, and that’s the best I can do. I have to make room for the stuff of pilgrimage before I can write about it. Cheers and grace, peregrinos.